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    Everything You Need to Know About Thermal Laminating Film

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    Thermal Laminating Film Rolls stacked against a green office wall at MyBinding.

    Thermal laminating film is popular for those looking to protect important documents, photographs, or other materials from wear and tear. In this guide, we will cover everything you need to know about this kind of lamination, including:

    • What it is and how it works
    • The different types of laminate available
    • The benefits of using hot lamination
    • How to choose the right thermal laminating film
    • Tips for using thermal laminate effectively

    What is Thermal Laminating Roll Film and How Does it Work?

    Thermal laminating roll film is a plastic film used to cover and protect documents, photographs, or other materials. The film is applied to the surface using heat and pressure, creating a tight seal that prevents the material from being damaged or degraded over time.

    The laminating process involves heating the film and pressing it onto the material that you want to protect. The heat activates the adhesive on the film, which then bonds to the surface. This creates a barrier that helps to protect it from moisture, dirt, and other types of damage.

    Thermal laminating rolll film is available in a variety of sizes and thicknesses, making it suitable for use with different types of materials and applications. The thickness is measured in mils, with the most common thicknesses being 1.5 mil, 3 mil, 5 mil, 7 mil, and 10 mil. 

    • 1.5 mil is primarily used by schools
    • 3 mil remains thin and flexible
    • 5 mil is a medium-weight popular for businesses
    • 7 mil is a slightly thicker option with more stability
    • 10 mil is the thickest standard option that is quite rigid when laminated

    One of the advantages of this type of film is that it provides a long-lasting and durable protective layer to your documents and materials. This is particularly important for items that are frequently handled or exposed to harsh environmental conditions. For example, the film will protect the surface from tearing, creasing, and fading if you are laminating a poster or a map.

    Lamination also allows your items to be wiped clean and sanitized. This is perfect for environments where contamination may be a threat, such as hospitals or doctor’s offices. 

    Another benefit is that it enhances the appearance of the material being laminated. The film provides a glossy or soft matte transparent finish that makes the colors and images on the material stand out. This is why thermal laminating roll film is often used for printing projects, artwork, or photographs.

    Thermal laminating roll film is a versatile and effective way to protect and enhance the appearance of your documents, photographs, and other materials. With a range of thicknesses and sizes available, you can choose the right type of film to suit your needs and achieve the desired level of protection.

    The Different Types of Thermal Laminating Film

    So you may be thinking that all thermal lamination is the same; it is not. In fact, different applications will call for different kinds of films. For example, photographs and inkjet prints would be best suited for a low-temperature lamination film that activates with less heat, reducing the chance of damage to the print itself.

    There are several different types of thermal laminating film, each with unique characteristics and uses. Some of the most common types include:

    Standard Thermal Laminating Film

    This is the most common type of laminating film, and it is suitable for most materials. It provides either a clear, glossy finish that helps to enhance the appearance of the material or a softer matte finish to reduce glare. This general film comes in several thicknesses and core sizes to be used with a huge range of laminating machines as well.

    Ultra-Clear Thermal Laminating Film

    This type of film is designed to provide a crystal-clear finish that enhances the appearance of the material being laminated. It is ideal for use with high-quality photographs or documents that require a high level of clarity.

    UV Thermal Laminating Film

    UV thermal laminate roll film is designed to provide protection against the damaging effects of ultraviolet (UV) light. This type of film is particularly useful for laminating materials that will be exposed to sunlight, such as signs or posters. It can help prevent fading and discoloration over time, ensuring the laminated materials remain vibrant and easy to read.

    Low-Temperature Laminating Film

    This type of film is designed to protect heat-sensitive materials from damage. This type of film uses a lower temperature than standard laminating film, which helps to prevent heat-sensitive materials from melting or warping during the laminating process. It is very useful for laminating materials such as photographs or documents printed on inkjet printers, which can be easily damaged by heat.

    Wide-Format Laminating Film

    Wide-format laminating film is designed for use with large-format printing. This type of film is typically wider than standard laminating film, making it ideal for laminating items such as maps, posters, or large photographs. It is also available in a range of thicknesses, allowing users to choose the right level of protection for their specific needs.

    Digital Laminating Film

    This type of thermal laminating film is designed specifically for use with digital prints. It provides a high level of clarity and protection, ensuring that digital images remain vibrant and easy to read over time. It is beneficial for laminating photographs or other materials that have been printed digitally, as it can help to prevent smudging or fading.

    Soft Touch Laminating Film

    Finally, soft touch laminating film is a type of thermal laminating film that provides a unique tactile experience. This type of film has a slightly textured finish that feels soft to the touch, making it ideal for laminating materials such as book covers or presentation folders. It provides a high level of protection while also enhancing the overall look and feel of the laminated material.

    Benefits of Using Thermal Laminating Film

    Using thermal laminating film has several benefits. Some of the key benefits include:

    • Protection – Laminating film provides a barrier that helps to protect materials from moisture, dirt, and other types of damage. This helps to prolong the life of the material and ensure that it remains in good condition for as long as possible.
    • Enhanced appearance – Laminating film can provide a clear, glossy finish that enhances the appearance of the material. This can help to make it look more professional and presentable, which can be important for certain types of documents or materials.
    • Ease of use – Laminating film is easy to use and can be applied to a wide range of materials quickly and easily. This makes it a popular choice for both personal and professional use.
    • Easy to clean – Laminated items are easy to wipe clean, so they are perfect for schools, medical facilities, and more.

    How to Choose the Best Thermal Laminating Film

    When choosing a thermal laminate roll film, consider the specific needs of your project. Factors to consider include:

    • The size and thickness of your document
    • The level of protection required
    • The desired finish (gloss or matte)
    • The type of laminating machine you will be using

    Need help choosing the best thermal laminating film for your unique needs? Contact our customer care team for one-on-one support. Tell them what kind of equipment you’re using and the applications you plan to laminate for an expert’s recommendation.

    Thermal Lamination FAQs

    Q: What is thermal laminating film?

    A: Thermal laminating film is a plastic film used to protect important documents and materials from wear and tear by laminating them. The adhesive is activated with heat.

    Q: How much space should I leave around the edges of my lamination?

    We recommend leaving at least 1/4u0022 on each edge to ensure laminate is sealed properly on all sides. Trimming closer than this could expose the inner print.

    Q: What are the different types of thermal laminating film?

    A: The most common types of thermal laminating film include standard, low-temperature, and ultra-clear laminating film. Additionally, there are other types, such as school film, UV, low-temp, wide-format, digital, soft touch, and more.

    Q: Is laminating film the same as a laminating roll?

    A: These two terms are actually used interchangeably by industry professionals, so saying one means the same as the other. Some people might say that laminating film refers to sheets instead of rolls, but it is widely accepted that both mean the same thing.

    Q: What is the average melting temperature for thermal lamination?

    A: The average melting temperature depends on the type of film being used. Standard thermal laminating film typically requires around 250-275 degrees Fahrenheit. In comparison, the low-temperature laminating film requires a temperature of about 200 degrees Fahrenheit.

    Q: What kinds of machines do I use with hot laminating film?

    A: Various roll laminating machines can be used with thermal film. Different machines will have different capabilities as far as heating temperature and laminating width. You can browse a collection here to see some options.

    Q: What is the best thermal laminate for schools?

    A: There is actually a film designed specifically for schools called (you guessed it) school laminating film. This falls into the standard laminate category and is usually a 1.5 mil thick, but sometimes a 1.2 mil. The thinner material is preferred by schools due to the economical pricing while still providing the same protection as other thicknesses.

    Discover Thermal Laminating Film

    Overall, thermal laminating film is an excellent choice to protect important documents and materials from wear and tear. It protects prints of all kinds from damage, can be easily cleaned, and enhances the colors and contrast below. The variety of films available makes this product accessible by companies of all kinds — you are sure to find something that will work well for your needs. If you need help selecting a great lamination film for your business, contact our expert sales team at 1-800-944-4573 for more information. Or click below to learn more and start shopping online today.

    Shop Thermal Laminating Film

    MyBinding’s Guided Tour to the History of Paper Lamination

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    MyBinding’s Guided Tour to the History of Paper Lamination

    Lamination at a very basic level is defined as “to unit (layers of materials) by an adhesive or other means”. It has been around for centuries with traces of laminated wood found in tombs of the Egyptians as well as ancient Chinese graves. Modern day lamination now includes glass, metals, and most importantly, paper.

    The exact date when paper was invented is unclear, but the need to preserve it was immediate. All paper, no matter the material, falls apart. Thousands of texts have been lost forever because of the general decay of paper products. With the invention of paper lamination protecting paper for the future became possible, and easy.

    Paper lamination has built companies, maintained classrooms, and preserved library archives. It has provided longevity for a material that loves to deteriorate. But using lamination to protect vulnerable objects didn’t start with paper, but with glass.

    “Forest Products Laboratory” / Madison, Wisconsin [1944]

    1903 – Édouard Bénédictus

    Like many great innovations lamination was discovered in a laboratory accident. French chemist, Édouard Bénédictus, knocked a glass beaker off his tabletop while working. As it hit the ground instead of shattering across the floor, it held its shape and only had internal cracking. He observed that a sticky collodion that had been added the night before had formed a protective layer around the inside of the beaker and prevented it from shattering.

    Bénédictus noted it as an interesting finding and filed it away. Thankfully the observation never left his mind. Days later when Bénédictus read a headline about a car crash and shattered glass, he returned to his discovery.

    The original discovery only had a single, internal coating and small shards of glass still broke free. However, by coating both sides of the glass, Bénédictus created a protective film that fully eliminated this problem. This would be the invention of shatterproof glass, and the first documented case of protective layering on both sides.

    Objects were already being strengthened by the use of lamination, such as plywood or MDF. Now lamination was being used for preservation. If glass could be made to stop shattering by the use of a double-sided film, what else could be protected?

    Édouard Bénédictus is also a famous artist. In 1920 he abandoned the sciences and became renowned for his Art Deco style creations.

    1930 – William Barrow

    Cotton paper takes hundreds of years before it starts fading. Not so with modern wood-pulp paper.

    A hydraulic press in use for laminating paper.
    “National Archives” / Washington, D.C., Nov. 22 [1939]

    At the turn of the 19th century, wood-pulp paper became the new standard. Wood-pulp significantly reduced the cost of paper production and made paper more accessible. However, for bleaching and sizing of the new material, paper manufacturers also introduced sulfuric acid to the production cycle. This would leave a residual acid on the papers surface and the remaining acid would do what acid is known for: destroying.

    The life expectancy of 19th century paper was approximately 40-50 years at most. Documents were falling apart at unprecedented rates and the only form of defense was to copy the text onto new, still acidic, wood-pulp paper.

    Librarians everywhere were, understandably, devastated.

    Around 1930, a paper manufacturer, William Barrow, published an essay on archival preservation. Barrow described the current problem with acidic wood-pulp paper and his method of preserving it by layering additional materials around it. He found that laminating the document between tissue and cellulose acetate film, it extended the lifespan by a few years.

    William Barrow’s preservation methods were originally ignored and not fully utilized until the 1950s. By then the earlier transition to wood-pulp paper began to finally take its toll.

    Barrow found that it took less than 10 years for American books made from wood-pulp paper to lose 64% of the original strength. That would light a fire under anyone in the 1950’s, a good 80 years after wood-pulp adoption.

    1970 – FotoFlat™

    Dry mounting is a form of lamina, but not exactly lamination.

    Dry mounting has been around for such a long time it’s hard to pinpoint when it started. The main difference between dry mounting and laminating is what the document is being sealed to. In dry mounting, the document will be laminated onto a flat surface, such as tackboard or wood. In lamination, the document will be laminated between two layers of plastic.

    Around 1941, photography started to suffer from the heat-activated dry mounting methods. The heat needed would cause the photos to lose vibrancy and clarity. Additionally, resin-coated papers began to see heavy use in 1960.

    It’s hard to follow what comes next. Companies at the time were constantly merging and product formulas were being updated at unprecedented rates. Not many documents were saved during this time of change, even with that being the main function of lamination.

    What we do know, is that 1970 is when cold mounting saw the fastest level of development.

    Seal, originally released FotoFlat™ in 1938. By 1969 the FotoFlat™ formula was updated enough to allow dry mounting at temperatures of 210°F. FotoFlat™ never achieved a pure heatless seal, but it provided the foundation for other companies to start.

    Early dry mounting tissue paper from 1970.

    Cold lamination saw more improvements in 2000 as the digital revolution swept in. Computer printing needed even lower temperatures and, same as before, companies competed to achieve the perfect adhesive film.

    The same shuffle of information occurred in 2000 and a definitive cold lamination discovery is unclear.

    Maybe we should look at it in a holistic way: People have been applying adhesive to paper since time immemorial. It’s truly impossible to say when marketing decided it would be called “cold lamination” instead of “gluing it together”.

    1975 – Donald F. Hannon and George E. Swingle

    William Barrow's concept for a roller laminator.
    W.J. Barrow / Library of Virginia [1952]

    The 1950’s lamination required a steam-heated flatbed press. At the time, this type of machine was only found in manufacturers of sheet metal. When not being used for sheet metal, the cost and size of the press made it only accessible by large government institutions or private archival practices. Organizations that didn’t have the space would have to pay to have their documents preserved instead.

    The hydraulic press wasn’t just a strain on resources either. The two plates that would apply pressure would not always be completely flat. Often the metal plates had irregularities that trapped air bubbles within the plastic. Additionally, the press would need to be held down for a minimum of 45 seconds to complete the melting process.

    Paper lamination was hitting it’s stride and the only next step was to capitalize on it. And that’s what Donald F. Hannon and George E. Swingle did in 1975.

    A roller machine, a rotary lathe, was already in use for plywood production. The lathe would roll a log over a sharp blade, peeling off a continuous veneer sheet. The long strip would then be glued together, forming strong, durable plywood. Hannon and Swingle envisioned an attachment to this existing machine that would allow paper to be fed through instead.

    The new roller attachment created consistent laminate, forcing trapped air bubbles out through the edges. And because it was being rapidly heated between two moving rollers, it significantly cut lamination time to seconds.

    Plywood had been in high demand since 1818 and the rotary lathe was being mass produced. Pricing for the machine was low and inventory was high. Laminating your own documents became easier and cheaper.

    William Barrow had designed a concept of a roll laminator in 1938 but was advised to abandon the idea. His lawyer felt that the roll laminator would be too narrow of an invention for anyone to want.

    1980 – Library of Congress

    The Barrow’s method of laminating paper was heavily utilized between 1950-70’s, however the results were often mixed. Some papers were becoming translucent after the lamination process. Others were becoming permanently trapped with residual sulfuric acid that slowly ate away. In 1959, the National Bureau of Standards created a standardization for the practice that looked to eliminate many of the problems:

    1. The document is first deacidified by consecutive washes with saturated solutions of calcium hydroxide and calcium bicarbonate.
    2. The document is then “sandwiched” between cellulose acetate film to create a protective exterior barrier.
    3. The document is then topped with a thin layer of Japanese tissue to prevent tears and improve strength.
    4. The “sandwich” of layers is placed into a press machine where it is heated and sealed. The plastic cellulose material became part of the paper, changing the paper’s final composition.

    This standard addressed some of the problems in paper lamination, but the biggest problem remained: cellulose acetate film.

    Cellulose acetate film only increased a document’s life expectancy by 40-50 years causing it to need further preservation later. However, it wasn’t that simple to re-preserve after the initial lamination. Cellulose acetate film would meld together with the original document material, making the laminated paper a plastic-hybrid instead. The paper would first need to be delaminated with an acetone solution, causing further deterioration to the original.

    In 1980, the Library of Congress published studies on their success with using polyester film. This new material wouldn’t change the paper composition like cellulose acetate, and it provided a longer lifespan. Polyester film was more expensive but saved more in the long run with less re-lamination needs.

    “National Archives” / Washington, D.C., Nov. 22 [1939]

    2000 – And On

    Lamination has come a long way from its humble beginnings in 1930. It has grown from being inconsistent to completely automized. It has become more accessible for every size of business. And documents that were heat sensitive can now be preserved.

    Laminator manufacturers are constantly looking for new ways to customize your lamination experience.

    The Revo-Office 12″ Automatic Roll Laminator with Feeder and Cutter

    The Revo-Office 12″ Automatic Roll Laminator by Revo combines feeding, laminating, and cutting into a single process. No more manual inserting or trimming. It can also handle 240 sheets per hour, already six times faster than most pouch laminators. An incredible improvement from the 1903 hydraulic press.

    Or the Coverbind Duo Thermal Binder and Pouch Laminator by Coverbind looks to combine finishing needs into one unit. The Coverbind Duo saves time and space by combining lamination and thermal binding into one machine. A one-stop-shop for any at home offices that need to be presentable.

    On top of new machines, new films are released consistently too: Gloss UV, matte, metalized. You can pick films made specifically for its ability to be written on. Pressure-sensitive lamination film works just as good, if not better, as thermal film.

    Industries are always finding new ways to make paper lamination work for them. Whether it’s the boom of lamination in schools during the 20th century. Or modern artists using lamination in their art to create unique design elements per layer. Lamination is constantly evolving and growing into new avenues we never expected.

    The MyBinding website has over 150 different types of laminators. Modern laminators have a host of different capabilities and can fit into any business size needs.

    We look forward to seeing the new and exciting changes that will come from the need to preserve documents. The world is constantly changing and introducing challenges that force companies to pivot and address new problems. And as experts in all things document finishing, we’ll be sure to document when it happens.

    If you have any additional questions, please reach out to customerservice@mybinding.com, or call us at 1-800-944-4573.

    Thank you for choosing MyBinding.com, When Image Matters

    Foiling Troubleshooting Tips

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    Foil fusing is a fantastic technique to transform regular printed pages into magnificent metallic prints without the need for specialized foiling equipment. Just your dry toner print, a foil roll in the color of your choice, a pouch laminator, and a shielding material called a pouch carrier are required. Here in our resource center, you can find various foil resources, such as guidelines, how-tos, FAQs, and more. You may purchase foil by clicking here. 

    But let’s get to the main purpose of this piece, which is to troubleshoot your foil lamination. Foiling is enjoyable and simple, however there are occasionally problems that arise. You should be able to solve most, if not all, of the foiling issues you might encounter with the help of this troubleshooting guide. 

    Foil Not Transferring: 

    To solve the issue if the foil isn’t transferring, there are a number of possible solutions you can try, all of which are fairly straightforward. 

    • Is the toner in your ink dry? Keep in mind that dry toner is the only thing that will make foil stick, so if you aren’t using the suitable ink, the foil won’t transfer. To determine whether it uses dry toner, check your printer and the cartridge. If not, you might be able to order your prints there, pick them up, and foil them when you get home or to the workplace. Most print and copy businesses offer these machines. 
    • Is the stock of your paper smooth? Remember that textured paper stocks will not transfer foil; the paper must be smooth for the foil to adhere correctly. The foil doesn’t become solid in the creases because of the texture. 
    • Do you have uncoated paper? On coated paper stocks (often written as C1S or C2S on your box of paper), foil will not transfer well because the coating stops the ink from getting the foil to connect correctly. 
    • Is the laminator hot enough? Your laminator should be heated to a minimum of 300° F. However, hotter is preferable. Various foils, such as holographic and translucent foils, as well as some paper stocks, such as larger sheets, will require more heat to transfer well. If the foil laminator is already operating at maximum heat, consider reducing the speed. If your heating or cooling system isn’t adjustable, try simply running it once more. You might need to use fresh foil because it can only be heated a few times before the foil becomes useless. You shouldn’t peel the foil and then run it again because it might not stick after being peeled up. The impression of your design in the foil is usually visible when a transfer has been done successfully just by looking at the sheet. 

    Foil Transferring onto Pages Without Ink: 

    • Are you using a hot foil laminator? Your laminator can be too hot if you have brushed your paper and the speckles have not been erased (or too slow). To test if the speckles disappear, try reducing the temperature or speeding up the process while running a fresh sheet. 
    • Tool Tip: Since some speckling on the page is natural, it is a good idea to keep a paint or cleaning brush on available to lightly dust the page after foiling. This will assist in removing such flecks. 
    • Tracking Dots: Every sheet of color-printed paper has tiny, invisible-to-the-human-eye yellow tracking dots printed on them. These readable dots can be used to determine the printer’s location, date, and purchaser. This is done so that if someone threatens someone in a printed letter, they can trace the message back to that person. You will be able to see the tracking dots if you print something in color using a loop. Although not all, the majority of printers now have tracking dots. Additionally, Google “tacky dots” and “printers.” When printing in deep black, these dots have no effect on the foil fusing procedure. Therefore, if you purchase a printer that prints tracking dots and you need to print rich black, you must omit the yellow else the sheet will end up covered with tiny foiled specks after going through the foil fuser. 

    Foiling Tips, Tricks, and Hacks: 

    Techniques for foiling with thermal toner that will produce the greatest results every time. 

    • Foil on your Pouch Carrier: Always lay a thin scrap of paper on top of your design before foiling to stop any foil from transferring to your pouch carrier folder page. If your foil “bleeds” over the edge of your print, you should always place a scrap of paper behind it. The intention is to keep the carrier and foil from making touch. It is a good idea to have additional foil carriers on available for mistakes like this because foil can transfer onto your carrier otherwise. They are fortunately quite affordable. 
    • Choosing the Best Ink: Solid black ink works well for grabbing solid foils. It can give the most saturated foil finish since it is the most saturated “color.” Additionally, since you won’t be able to see the ink underneath, using a different color wouldn’t matter. Only if you are using a transparent underlay foil, like our holographic foil, would you want to use colored ink instead (which comes in either a silver or transparent underlay). This would allow the ink color beneath the foil pattern to be seen, enhancing it. Your laminator will require more heat when using foils other than black and when utilizing more specialized foils, like translucent or holographic. Also, keep in mind that for this heat transfer foiling to function, your printer must use dry toner ink. 

    Ready to Get Started? 

    Check out the vast selection of thermal reactive toner foil we provide, which includes hundreds of choices like iridescent patterns, holographic patterns, sparkly foil, metallic and matte colors, and more. Additionally, we provide formal foil fusing machines for bigger volumes, a number of high-quality pouch laminators that have been tested and approved for foiling, as well as foil roll cutters to reduce the width of your rolls. 

    Lamination and Laminators Troubleshooting Guide

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    Laminating is a combination of art and science. Here are some pointers to help you use your roll laminator to produce the highest quality laminations. MyBinding provides a wide selection of hot and cold laminators.  

    Making Heat Settings Modifications: 

    When first starting off, it is important to stick to the laminator’s recommended heat settings. Nevertheless, depending on the film you’re using and the materials you’re laminating, those settings could need to be changed. Here are the fundamental principles and theories guiding the proper heat settings. 

    • When the laminate comes out of the laminator, it will be transparent but wavy if there is too much heat present. This is because there wasn’t enough time for the film to cool in between two pairs of rollers. The laminator’s temperature needs to be lowered as a fix. To give the laminator a chance to cool, you must wait before running more material. 
    • Your document will become silvery or cloudy if you don’t have enough heat if the heat is applied unevenly. If this occurs, you will have to raise the heat’s temperature in order to “wet out” the glue. After a lengthy laminating session, you might also need to give your laminator adequate time to regain heat because the rollers’ temperature will decline as heat is transferred to your documents. The kind of printing techniques being used could be another factor contributing to silvering. For instance, the ink and toner used in inkjet and color copier output contain additives that call for specifically made films. 

    Secondly, ensure that you have the correct thermal laminating film for your hot laminator.  

    Making Speed Modifications: 

    Your laminating machine may be a single-speed or a variable-speed machine, depending on what it is. Only laminators with adjustable speed settings should be used, according to these remarks. The quantity of heat that is delivered onto the film can be directly influenced by changing the laminator’s speed setting. 

    • When the laminate comes out of the laminator clear yet waved, this indicates that the film has absorbed too much heat. The film will spend less time on the heaters when the laminator’s speed is increased, minimizing the amount of heat it absorbs. 
    • By slowing down, you extend the time the film spends on the heaters, which increases the amount of heat the film absorbs if your document has silvering or cloudiness. 

    This example demonstrates how temperature and speed work together harmoniously. Finally, to select the ideal setting for the kind of paper you are laminating, you must strike a balance between heat and speed. 

    Making Tension Adjustments: 

    How tightly the laminate is stretched when it exits the laminator depends on the tension setting. You want your movie to have as little stress as possible.  

    The goal is to impart just the right amount of tension to the film just before it hits the nip rollers, the first set of rollers, to smooth out any creases. If the wrinkle disappears before it reaches the nip where the two rolls of film come together, a small amount of wrinkling at the top of the roller or heat shoe is OK. 

    • Remove all the tension from the film mandrels before adding your film.  
    • After inserting the film into the device, gradually tighten the top and bottom rollers. If you don’t do this evenly, the film will cup or bow as it comes off the rollers. 
    • The top or bottom rolls of film are stretched more than the opposite roll, which is what causes this. You might need to change your tension settings because when the film on the roll is utilized, the roll of the film will weigh less.  

    Just keep in mind that if you are running the same kind of film on both sides, the tension on both rollers should be always set at the same level. 

    Issues with De-Lamination: 

    De-lamination has grown to be a source of issues as the print industry transitions to digitally produced output. The biggest problem is with color copies or output from digital printing that contains a lot of fuser oil. If you are experiencing this issue, you might find that when your finished documents are face trimmed, the laminate will simply peel off. Consider utilizing a high-tack laminating film like Color-Bond if you are using this kind of digital output. To assure attachment to this coated output, this kind of film utilizes specialized adhesive chemistry. 

    In conclusion, the lamination process involves components of chemistry and physics. However, when you, as an operator, comprehend the science underlying lamination and can modify your equipment accordingly to produce the ideal output each time, then lamination becomes an art. 

    Laminating Sheets vs. Pouches – What’s the Difference? 

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    There is a distinction between both a laminating pouch and a laminating sheet even though the phrases are frequently used interchangeably in the laminating industry. They both contain polyester and adhesive, however, lamination pouches often have a far higher ratio of polyester to adhesive than lamination film. Lamination pouches feel significantly stiffer as a result of this than laminated with roll film. This is the key basis for why roll laminating is less expensive than laminating pouches. 

    Laminating Pouches: 

    A “laminating pouch” is a laminate film piece with a pre-sealed edge making a pouch or sleeve. A laminating pouch, available as a cold pouch or thermal pouch, is used for two-sided laminating. The cold laminations can be produced without a machine or using a laminator that has a cold option. A heated pouch laminator is always required to seal thermal pouches. 

    Laminating pouches are ideal for providing all-around protection for a variety of documents, including ID cards, multipurpose papers, and images. Both the front and back sides of your page will be safeguarded because they totally enclose it. They also increase the document’s rigidity and stability by two, which increases its durability and resistance to bends and tears. 

    TIP: Your laminator is too hot if your pouch comes out wavy. It is too low if it turns out milky. Accordingly, alter the speed or heat settings. You could use or skip a laminating pouch carrier to either shield your pouch from excessive heat or enable more heat to reach it if there are no heat or speed adjustments. 

    Laminating Sheets: 

    The typical laminating sheet size is made for papers up to Letter or A4 size. This means the sheet is somewhat bigger (9 x 11.5 inches) so that your document has an edge on either side. If there is too much extra plastic at the borders or if you are laminating anything smaller, you can trim the sides of the laminating sheet following centering and sealing your paper. 

    A single piece of laminate film that isn’t sealed or joined to another sheet is referred to as a “laminating sheet” in simple terms. To laminate one side only, use a laminating sheet. Most of the time, they are self-stick, thus laminating your paper does not require heat or a machine. Rather, they merely apply pressure. You would peel off the paper lining covering the glue and stick it to your page. 

    For certificates, flyers, signage, schedules, and more, laminating sheets are ideal. Typically, there aren’t many sizes available, but they can always be shrunk. They provide a little bit more stability for your pages than plain sheets, but not the full protection from spills and bending that a completely contained laminating pouch would provide. 

    Advice: Only peel off the corner of your line, then fold it back so that the adhesive is visible. Use the grid if the liner has one to align your page correctly with the bag before pressing it down to the exposed corner. While placing your page into the laminate sheet and smoothing it from the corner toward the edges, slowly peel off the liner. Either by hand or with a little roller are options. 

    Shop Laminating Pouches
    Shop Roll Laminating

    Give us a call at  1-800-944-4573  if you have any questions, and we’ll be happy to help you choose the best sort of lamination for your needs.